Laura Zera

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Travel: The Resident at Hagia Sophia

By Laura Zera 16 Comments

Hagia Sophia - exteriorThroughout its life as a church, then mosque and now museum, Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia has remained a grand and dignified beacon. Each year, thousands of people arrive to view its Byzantine beauty and take in the domes and pillars, mosaics and minarets, just as Francis and I did in 2011. And quite unexpectedly, (but just like the occasion at Monsoon Palace in Udaipur, India), I met a cat. There, among the sumptuous decor, sat the most nonchalant of cross-eyed feline squatters, tolerating the human traffic and waiting for the sun to shift so that there’d be a warm place to lie. Not a bad place to while away your time, really.

Hagia Sophia - interior 1aHagia Sophia - interiorHagia Sophia - cat

Have you ever encountered any unexpected residents — feline or other? 

 

Travel: Dialing it Way Down in Fiji

By Laura Zera 18 Comments

Navutu Stars from the bayIf you’re looking for an island paradise, one thing to consider is that the further you go, the fewer the people. For some, Fiji may not be the most accessible country in the world, especially if you don’t like long flights, but if you want to drop out of the rat race and leave your cares behind, well, then get out the inflatable neck pillow, we’re going on a long-haul. And yes, paradise does await.

Fiji is made up of more than 300 islands, but eeeeeeverybody flies into Nadi (pronounced ‘Nandi’) International Airport, on Vitu Levu, first. Approximately 87% of Fiji’s population lives either on Vitu Levu or Vanua Levu, the two big islands, and sure, you could stay there, too. There are plenty of sweet spots along the coastline within easy reach of Nadi. But remember what we said? The further you go…

Fiji map of YasawasWhen Francis and I picked Fiji as a destination in 2008, we were in dire need of a bit of pampering. We dislike large resorts, though. In fact, I don’t think we’d ever stayed at a resort before. The search for a small-but-fantastic place with quiet beaches and no children began, and soon, the interwebs presented us with the incomparable Navutu Stars on Yaqeta Island, part of the Yasawas chain.

To get there, we hopped on the Yasawa Flyer, a catamaran ferry that leaves from the Port Denarau Marina. The ride to Navutu takes four hours, but along the way, you get a chance to view other islands and resorts during (the first) four stops in the Mamanuca chain and then about a dozen more quick Yasawa stops. After Navutu, the ferry goes even further still.

And what is Navutu Stars all about? Well, considering that Francis and I aren’t resort people but made another trip to Navutu in 2010 says something. Just nine bures (Fijian-style huts), private beaches, snorkeling and fishing in perfectly blue water, and last but definitely not least, a team of warm, wonderful staff. Here are some of my favorite photos from our trips, and tips on how to maximize your time in paradise. I apologize in advance if viewing them causes you to plunder your savings account and book a trip to Fiji tout de suite. (Do it.)

Tip #1: Spend as much time in or on the water as you can, sometimes with a dog.

Navutu Stars cave expeditionNavutu Stars doing diddly-squatNavutu Stars beachNavutu Stars kayaking w. MayaNavutu Stars snorkeling w. Maya

Tip #2: Eat what you catch.

Navutu Stars fishingNavutu Stars eat your catch

Tip #3:  Sing (a lot) and tell really funny stories.

Seruvi and Grace singing on the boatNavutu Stars storytelling w. SeruviNavutu Stars storytelling w. Seruvi 1b

Tip #4: Attend a wedding, or maybe Sunday church in a village. And sing (a lot).

Navutu Stars wedding 1bNavutu Stars wedding 1cYaqeta village church, Fiji

Tip #5:  Hang out with the staff, and sometimes a dog.

Navutu Stars kavaNavutu Stars staff shuttle

Tip #6: Eat lots of yummy stuff and then lay in your hammock.

Navutu Stars octupus saladNavutu Stars hammock

Tip #7: Watch the stars at night, take selfies on the beach and thank the universe for having put you there in the first place.

Navutu Stars night skyNavutu Stars selfie

Finally, when you’re leaving the islands, Jack’s of Fiji provides the perfect souvenir option, because didn’t you always want a cannibal fork? 

p.s. The dog in the photos is the lovely Mia, a purebred Golden Retriever. Her humans are the resort’s owners, who, at the time of our second visit, were building a sister resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Maya has since joined them there, but in 2010, in their absence, she adopted us for the length of our stay, following us during many of our activities, including snorkeling (the only problem with that was that she got so tired swimming out to us that she’d then climb on me, hence the reason I’m holding a Golden Retriever in a Fijian bay).

p.p.s. The bald fellow with the goatee in the photos is Ed, a New Zealand-Italian mixed breed that we adopted during our second visit. Actually, he was managing Navutu Stars while the owners were in Cambodia. He has since joined them there, too.

 

Travel: What You Can Do With Six Days in Udaipur

By Laura Zera 19 Comments

Udaipur, IndiaThe 335 citations on India’s Wikipedia page are just one (thoroughly researched) way of saying that there’s a lot going on in that neck of the woods. When my husband Francis and I visited in December 2009, we used our three weeks to get a taste of different regions—Delhi and the north, west and south—without racing around too much and turning it into a whirlwind-slash-logistical-cluster$%&# (it can really go either way in India). And largely because we fell in love with the idea of sleeping like maharajas in a grand lakeside haveli, Udaipur is where we stayed once we arrived in Rajasthan.

Guidebooks call Udaipur the “Venice of the East,” and while water does feature prominently in the city’s charm, I wouldn’t even attempt to pigeonhole all that comprises Udaipur. Seven days? Please, take seven months. And I hope you like the word, “wow,” because you’re going to say it a lot if you visit.

Thank you to Francis for sharing some of his photos with me. Now, here are some ideas for things to see or do during your visit.

Let’s start with the obvious. You can visit palaces. You can even stay in palaces, although Lake Palace will empty your wallet of about $500 a night. (We stayed at Amet Haveli, and it was plenty luxe and still very affordable.)

Lake Palace in the distance, Udaipur
Lake Palace in the distance
From Monsoon Palace
View from Monsoon Palace

 

City Palace, Udaipur 1b
City Palace

 

Amet Haveli, Udaipur
Our digs at Amet Haveli
Jag Mandir
Jag Mandir

You can have breakfast with friends.

Breakfast with friends, Udaipur

You can get your pants hemmed for 20 cents.

Rambo Tailor, Udaipur

You can walk the skinny streets and try not to get squished by cars or elephants.

Street traffic, Udaipur 1dStreet traffic, Udaipur 1bStreet traffic, Udaipur 1a

You can go swimming (but not on pool cleaning day).

Cleaning the swimming pool, Udaipur

You can… <snort…giggle…teehee>…

Use Your Dipper, Udaipur

You can take easy excursions to Shilpgram (the festival is in December) or Eklingji (it was built in 734 A.D.).

Shilpgram Festival, Udaipur 1a Shilpgram Festival 1b

Eklingji, Rajasthan 1a
Eklingji
Eklingji, Rajasthan 1c
Eklingji
Eklingji, Rajasthan 1b
Eklingji

You can take a cooking class with a former national swimming champion (and his cute-as-pie daughter), after the three of you ride to his house on a very small motorbike. 

Cooking class, Udaipur 1aCooking class, Udaipur 1b Cooking class, Udaipur 1c Cooking class, Udaipur 1d

Or, you can sit lakeside and just be. 

Lake Palace
Lake Palace

Wherever you are, enjoy!

 

Travel: Laos in Pictures, Part II

By Laura Zera 16 Comments

Last week, we took a photo tour of the Laos capital of Vientiane plus two spots north, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. Now we’re going to cruise around the lower part of the country—Pakse, the Bolaven Plateau and at the southernmost tip, Si Phan Don (the Four Thousand Isles archipelago).Continue Reading

Travel: Laos in Pictures, Part I

By Laura Zera 23 Comments

Plucked from the category of “pick a place where everyone else is going and go somewhere different,” these photos are from a three-week backpacking trip I did in Laos six years ago (sorry, Thailand). I’m going to post in two parts because although the photo quality is not fantastic, the content is definitely fun so I’ll split the posts into the north part of the country, then the south (just the way I traveled it).Continue Reading

Travel: Trinidad and Old Friends

By Laura Zera 8 Comments

There’s a sweet and special thing about making new friends: no matter how far away they live, you never know when they’ll turn into old friends. A chance encounter or short conversation with someone uncovers common interests or shared experiences and pretty soon, a quarter century has gone by and you’re still sending each other Christmas cards (and now, chatting on Facebook).Continue Reading

Travel: Nadine Christian of Pitcairn Island Gives an Insider’s View

By Laura Zera 39 Comments

After the first group of Polynesian settlers on Pitcairn Island suffered extinction in the 15th century, it wasn’t inhabited again until mutineers from HMS Bounty, along with the Tahitians who accompanied them, sought refuge there in 1790.

Since then, the population has never exceeded 250, for the past several decades has averaged somewhere in the 50s, and all are from just four main families. As a British Overseas Territory, it is reported to be both the least populous jurisdiction as well as the smallest democracy in the world. Pitcairn Island has neither an airport nor a seaport; the islanders use longboats to ferry people and goods between ship and shore through Bounty Bay as its one small harbor is so shallow that only small boats can dock. The rest of the Pitcairn island group aren’t inhabited, making Mangareva Island and Easter Island the nearest population bases, at a mere 540 and 2065 kilometers away, respectively.Continue Reading

Travel: A Visit to the SkyMall

By Laura Zera 14 Comments

Dear SkyMall, if you continue to sell the things you sell, people are going to continue to ridicule you. Sure, those pet doors look quite useful and I even kind of like the Hobbit rings, but the Bed-Bug-Thwarting Sleeping Cocoon? You might just try to sell someone A NEW MATTRESS instead.

Here are a few of my top picks for today’s forehead-slapping moment.Continue Reading

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