After the first group of Polynesian settlers on Pitcairn Island suffered extinction in the 15th century, it wasn’t inhabited again until mutineers from HMS Bounty, along with the Tahitians who accompanied them, sought refuge there in 1790.
Since then, the population has never exceeded 250, for the past several decades has averaged somewhere in the 50s, and all are from just four main families. As a British Overseas Territory, it is reported to be both the least populous jurisdiction as well as the smallest democracy in the world. Pitcairn Island has neither an airport nor a seaport; the islanders use longboats to ferry people and goods between ship and shore through Bounty Bay as its one small harbor is so shallow that only small boats can dock. The rest of the Pitcairn island group aren’t inhabited, making Mangareva Island and Easter Island the nearest population bases, at a mere 540 and 2065 kilometers away, respectively.
What must life be like in such a place? Idyllic? Isolated? Like nothing else on earth? Since meeting author Nadine Christian on Twitter several weeks ago, these questions have lingered, so I was more than pleased when she graciously agreed to answer a few of them for this week’s travel post. Here we go!
You’re related to Fletcher Christian, the man who led the mutiny on HMS Bounty, and Parkin Christian, who first found its rudder in Bounty Bay in 1933. Is that on your side of the family or through marriage? Tell us a bit about your family tree, if you could.
I cheekily call myself a ‘Quality Import.’ I was born and raised in New Zealand, but married into the Christian family in 2002. My kids, however, can lay claim to the fact that they proudly trace their roots back nine generations to Fletcher Christian. The fact that they can also, in a winding way, link back to three other mutineers is really an amazing realization.
I know you’re an author, but you also do several other things. What does a typical day in your life look like? And is it normal that residents wear so many different vocational hats?
I think you have to be a multi-tasker here. The fact that I, for example, am a mother of five kids, run a household – including the making of bread, tending of gardens, animals and tedious daily house chores – doesn’t take away from other needs. I am the Government Treasurer, the museum Curator, and write in my ‘spare time.’
With such a small population you need to be able to be versatile and able to switch hats easily from job to job to get things done.
I read that a baby born on Pitcairn in 2003 was the first in 17 years, and only one other has been born since. Do islanders ever worry that their numbers will dwindle to nil?
Actually, I’m proud to say that my two daughters were the last babies born on island; Emily, of course, in 2003, and Adrianna in 2007. We do worry that as an aging population we will not draw enough young people back home, but government support of the recent promotion geared towards immigration has begun. Hopefully, we will soon see a growing population, and a wider base of experience, job- and life-wise on the island.
According to the Wikipedia page, Pitcairn’s population went from 67 in 2011 to 48 in 2012. So where did a third of the people go?
Norfolk Island houses a lot of Pitcairners, but New Zealand and Australia also are home to many now too. The economy and job opportunities were draws that some islanders were just unable to resist.
The area of the island is 1.75 square miles, with only 88 acres of flat land. Is land ownership quite equal, or do some own more and some own none?
You could apply for land if you wanted, too! The land is owned by the Crown, however, if a resident wanted land to build a house, raise a garden or orchard etc., all they have to do is apply. Thus the land is open for all without dispute.
When did Internet service arrive? Have all the residents embraced it?
The Internet hit Pitcairn in 2002 and by the end of 2003, most houses had computers and were linked to the world. Because of the ease of connection, the world has opened up to us, and I like to think we’ve more than embraced that wider world – we’ve dived in head first!
Do all children leave to attend school in New Zealand once they’ve finished the primary grades? And how long does it take to get to New Zealand, exactly?
It’s something I personally hope that my kids are open to. I’d like them to get to know what the ‘real world’ is like, to learn and progress their education. Most kids leave at 15 to head out to a boarding school in New Zealand. It’s a three thousand mile trip, and not one to be taken lightly, but a higher education for returning pupils can only progress our island further. For someone like my daughter Emily, who has never left the island at all, it’s a must in my opinion to experience the way of life, and to widen her horizons.
How often does Pitcairn receive tourists? Have you had many homestay visitors at your residence?
We have a supply ship every three months called the Claymore II. This ship will arrive from New Zealand FULL of supplies, then take a two day journey to the Gambier Islands in Tahiti to pick up tourists, then return where they will stay on island for either a 4- or 10-day stay. Other than these Claymore II runs, we may get yachtie’s dropping in during the windier times of the year!
We have a little chalet we open up to homestay visitors. We’re right out of Adamstown, perched high on the hill, so our views out over the South Pacific are beautiful. We’ll take at least one or two guests a year, however, there are many other households that open their arms to tourists. Overall, maybe 15 – 20 visitors arrive on island every rotation of the supply ship.
Where do Pitcairn residents go for vacation?
I don’t think there is a word in the Pitcairn vocabulary for vacation! It’s a twenty-four-seven kind of existence here, but most of us take the day off on Saturday and relax. Going off island is not something you take lightly and the only reason most leave is for medical reasons.
What are your favorite and least favorite things about Pitcairn Island?
Most favourite thing? Oh, there are too many. The calm and quiet of a dark starry night after power has gone off for the night and all you can hear is the chirp of crickets and the hiss of the sea on the rocks below. The freedom my kids have to roam and play. The pristine waters, the bounty of fish in the ocean.
The least favourite? Being so far away from the ‘real world.’ My mother was taken ill recently and was hospitalized in New Zealand. It was horrible to be unable to go to her, the only way to speak to her was via my brother’s cellphone at her hospital bed. Emergency travel back home to New Zealand would have been almost impossible, and I felt so terrible being cut off, and horribly aware at how isolated we were.
Nadine Christian lives on Pitcairn Island, in the middle of the South Pacific, with her husband, five children, four goats, two cats and thirty chickens. With its rich maritime history, Pitcairn’s romantic past comes alive in her novels, capturing the taste of life on an isolated tropical island, miles from the rush and bustle of normal city life. Nadine’s first novel is titled Remembering Love, and you can learn more about it and her forthcoming release on Nadine’s website and on Twitter.
Have you ever been anywhere like Pitcairn Island? Or do you have questions for Nadine? Please, share them!
Chris James says
Terrific interview, Laura. Thanks for sharing your experiences, Nadine. I’ve always wondered what life on Pitcairn is really like these days, and this was an engrossing read. Off to your website now 🙂
Nadine Christian says
Thanks Chris! It’s a wonderful place to live!
Laura Zera says
Thank you, Chris!
Molly Greene says
Laura, thanks so much for hosting Nadine, and Nadine, thank you so much for sharing your fascinating life!
Laura Zera says
Glad you stopped by, Molly!
Nadine Christian says
Hi Molly! Glad to be here. And thank YOU Laura! 🙂
Debbie Young says
Wow, what a fascinating interview – thank you both! There is something very special about Pitcairn – just about everyone has heard of it, knows roughly where it is and its heritage, which is amazing for such a small population. There are much bigger countries and populations of which the wider world knows very much less!
Off to follow you on Twitter now, Nadine, and I am so pleased to be able to connect with you in this way!
Laura, you never fail to amaze me with your revelations and your travels – even the ones that take place only via the ether! x
Laura Zera says
Why, thank you, Debbie! Even travel via the ether is a whole lot of fun, hey?
Nadine Christian says
Thanks Debbie, always great to meet new people, and widen my horizons just a little! *grin*
Ken Kailing says
Very interesting; a place I’d really like to visit.
Laura Zera says
Cheers, Ken, and thanks for reading!
Nadine Christian says
You could probably find out more on our island’s tourism page — http://www.visitpitcairn.pn.
Jo-Anne Teal says
Thanks so much for doing this interview, Nadine and Laura. I’m fascinated by your life on such a gorgeous island, with the parameters of isolation, yet in most ways so much freedom and safety.
How wonderful!
Laura Zera says
Thanks, Jo-Anne. I had a lot of fun setting this up with Nadine!
Nadine Christian says
I really enjoyed this too Laura… it’s really awesome to meet so many wonderful new friends!
Jagoda says
I had actually never before heard of Pitcairn Island–sheesh, where have I been? Anyway, this was an interesting glimpse into a different way of life, one that seems idyllic (haven’t most of us daydreamed about living on a tropical island?) and is in some ways, yet also has its challenges. I imagine the internet is opening new views and possibilities for the kids.
Thanks, Nadine, for sharing a bit of your life. Thanks, Laura, for discovering Nadine and inviting her to share. Did you two meet virtually?
Nadine Christian says
Yes — isnt Twitter a wonderful thing! LOL… I’m finding so many wonderful contacts this way.
Laura Zera says
Thanks for your comment, Jagoda, and yes, isn’t Twitter is great?! In what other day and age could we have so easily struck up a conversation with someone like Nadine, and I’m so glad we have! Thank you again, Nadine, for being so enthusiastically on board for this piece.
Jodi from Heal Now and Forever says
I want to be her next visitor. This is my kind of vacation. I think my husband would agree!
Laura Zera says
It would be DREAMY, wouldn’t it?! Even just the ‘getting there’ would be great. Thanks for reading, Jodi!
Nadine Christian says
We’ll get the chalet ready for you Jodi!
Andy says
Very fascinating work Laura, I love what you are doing with your site. I definitely learned a few things that I would not have known otherwise. Appreciate you sharing this!
Laura Zera says
Thank you so much, Andy. I’m glad you stopped by and I’ll definitely hop on over to yours as well.
Nadine Christian says
Nice to meet you Andy! I think Laura is just fabulous!
Laura Zera says
*Blush* 🙂
You should pop over to Andy’s blog (backpackingdiplomacy.com), Nadine. He’s like my brother from another mother in terms of his travel outlook!
Nadine Christian says
I’ll check it out Laura!!!
Wendee Nicole says
That sounds like an amazing way of life! So can US citizens move there? (she mentioned an immigration policy). Why is it so hard to get off the island even in emergencies? Is it because the boats in come so rarely? That would be the only downside for me.
Nadine Christian says
Anyone can move here — there is an immigration policy to follow and adhere to as anywhere, but we’re welcoming new people.
We’re VERY isolated. The only way on or off is via our supply ship which arrives quarterly — or if there is a really bad medical emergency we try and mayday a passing container ship which pass now and then.
The isolation IS bad sometimes, but hey — wake up in the morning to chirping birds and the hiss of the sea on the rocks down below…. no traffic… no pollution… Wonderful.
Anoofah says
what time of the year should we visit Pitcairn Island?
Nadine Christian says
Anytime of year! Our clime is quite mild — neither too hot, nor too cold. Usually we’re in shorts and tee-shirt all year round. There are four supply ship runs, and you can make a choice of a four day or 11 day visit.!
Laura Zera says
I’d say go for the 11-day visit, Anoofah!! 🙂
Paul Clements says
Exchanged the odd “tweet” with Nadine over the last few days and it was fascinating to read more about her world. Sounds idyllic although the isolation can have its drawbacks as evidenced by Nadine being unable to see her mother when she was ill. Island life has always interested me. Excellent work!
Laura Zera says
I agree, Paul. I find it fascinating, too. Thanks very much, glad you stopped by!
Julia says
Really great interview, Nadine. I had not seen this before. I will share it.
Laura Zera says
Hi Julia, thanks for stopping by, and for your kind comment.
Gad Ben Rosen says
Great interview Laura!
Fascinating,
Gadi
Laura Zera says
Thanks for reading, Gadi! Glad you enjoyed it.
Nadine K. Christian says
I am happy to hear about my ancestors and family history.