It’s always amazing to me how much brighter my outlook on life is on the day after a transit day. After a long day on the road (and usually arriving at my destination at night), hotel rooms always seem to look a little grungy, people a little shifty, streets somewhat inhospitable. It was like that when I arrived in Tela. When I got up on February 5th, though, with the sunshine coming through my window my hotel room looked pretty decent. Outside, children played. The streets were alive with the bustle and noise of daily commerce. It was a whole new place.
Originally I had thought that I might take a boat tour over to the nearby Parque Nacional Jeannette Kawas or maybe rent a bike and ride to a nearby botanical garden, but when I woke up, I didn’t feel like going anywhere quickly. Instead, I used the day to stroll around Tela, drink a lot of coffee, do some people watching, and take in sunset on the beach.
I’d heard mixed reviews about Tela from other travelers, but I quite enjoyed it. I only saw about six other tourists throughout the day, and the rest of the people hanging out on the boardwalk or having a picnic on the beach were Honduran. Like Dangriga in Belize, Tela felt very authentic to me. The wares for sale along the main street weren’t oriented to tourists; there were Dora the Explorer backpacks, a lot of kitchen items, and a lotta lotta colorful plastic – China has been here, too!
Everywhere I went, I found political graffiti spray painted on building exteriors. I’m going to have to do some searching on the interwebs to see what that’s all about when I have some time.
There were several banks around the Parque Central hub. The one in which I changed some money also doubled as a furniture store. There were several sofa and loveseat sets, some major appliances, apparently a BIG sale going on, and then a couple of teller windows off to one side.
I had an early dinner that night. I’d found the restaurant where I wanted to dine — it had conch on the menu – while walking around in the afternoon and then mistakenly asked them “At what hour it’s open?” instead of “Until what hour it’s open?” When the waitress said six, I thought it very odd, but didn’t question it. I came back for dinner at 5:45 p.m. and then realized my Spanish stupidity as more and more people arrived the later it got. Doh!
The beach didn’t have stunning blue Caribbean water, but I could see it just off in the distance! What a tease. Closer to shore, it was pretty brown. I noted that there were lots of garbage bins tied to palm trees on the beach – always a good sign. More importantly, people seemed to be using them!
There was a good smattering of restaurants and bars along the boardwalk, although the only one that I found that had Wi-Fi was César Mariscos. Of course, it was also the most expensive restaurant. I self-sacrificed by buying a strawberry daiquiri while I was having a Skype chat with my hubby.
The Sinai hotel had cable TV (still no hot showers, but there was a TV). At home I average about three hours of TV per week, most of it while on the treadmill at the gym, but with the dark streets of Tela being so uninviting, I zombied out on three consecutive episodes of House. Those writers really need to shake up the formula a bit – it is so predictable! What’s not predictable is my schedule. I haven’t decided where I’m going tomorrow, and I love that about this trip.
Mackly says
I enjoyed reading your post. Did you make it to Parque Nacional Jeannette Kawas? More importantly, how was your dinner?
Please check my video from Tela: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QVpCbJePN0
Laura Zera says
Hi, thanks for stopping by. No, I didn’t make it to the park (I just stayed two nights in Tela), and my conch dinner was great!
You must live in Tela. Your video is a nice compilation for a very nice little town.
Mackly says
Hi Laura, thank you for your prompt reply. I grew up in Tela , but moved to Spain at seventeen, New York is my home now. I actually knew Jeanette Kawas as a kid, but never suspected she’d have such a tragic end.
I think I’m going to explore your webpage a little bit, it looks quite impressive. Is your dog Pug still alive? Are you fluent is Spanish?
It seems that we both share an artistic side, I enjoyed painting, writing and playing the guitar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahVYoiwLNTI
Laura Zera says
Oh wow, her murder must have been quite the shock to you. Do you manage to get back to Tela for regular visits?
My pug (Yolanda) actually passed away two months ago, on Feb.8. Still getting over that one! And as for Spanish, no, I know almost none. Languages are not my strong suit, unfortunately.
It’s awesome that you have found outlets for your creativity; I think that is so essential for the soul.
Mackly says
Her dead was a shock to many and those of my generation. We belong to a period of history – sixties and seventies – where people died mostly of natural causes or by accident. Back then Tela was a small town where its social and financial fabric always seemed to revolve around the U.S. banana companies until they left. As it is, I’m the grandson of an American – Frederick Pearson- who came to Tela as a staff of the United Fruit Co., and grew up next to one of the few Jewish families in my town.
I have been to Tela a few times, but I’m not planning on visiting any time soon because the levels of crime are way too high. This makes me sad.
I’m sorry to hear about Yolanda. The reason why I asked you about your proficiency with Spanish is because I just wrote an article about a dog named Sultan. Dogs are such noble and intelligent animals and Sultan taught me a life lesson of love and loyalty when I was only 7 years old. Was your experience with Yolanda similar?
Laura Zera says
Wow, fascinating history — yours, and that of Tela.
It has been sad to watch the crime spiral out of control in Honduras over the past decade. San Pedro Sula now has the unglamorous designation of highest murder rate in the world.
My experience with Yolanda was very similar to yours with Sultan. She taught me so much about love. And dogs are the BEST. I love all animals, but have always connected with dogs the most — people call me The Dog Whisperer. 🙂 Are you a writer by trade?
Mackly says
Hi Laura, I hope everything is well with you. I enjoy writing, but not by trade I’m actually an attorney who is part of a litigation department at one of the mayor law firms in USA. Nobody would have guessed this outcome in my life , I am just one of those kids you probably saw playing or just hanging out in the streets of Tela.
I’m now on a quest for kindness and serving others, specially kids and the less fortunate. I’m sure you may have several ideas on the subject and you’re more than welcome to share them with me.
Laura Zera says
I like your quest! Show up as love. That’s my main “big” idea. Just show up as love. 🙂