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Travel: Lazy Days in Antigua, Part II

By Laura Zera 20 Comments

Antigua license plateThe goal for our December trip to Antigua was to do as little as possible, and Francis and I were exceptionally successful at achieving it (see Lazy Days in Antigua, Part I to read about how we sat around all day, mouths open, spittle running down our chins). Let me tell you, though, there were other forces at work.

Disastrously, we met a very fit and rather diabolical Antiguan American woman named Sara on the flight down. Insisting that we “go out and see the island” (???!!!), she picked us up at our apartment and drove us North to South, East to West, on several occasions. It was terrible. We barely survived it.

On Christmas Eve, Sara’s idea of fun was to join in the merriment in downtown St. John’s. There were lights and decorations, happy people everywhere, and to rub salt in the wound, a deceivingly scrumptious local dinner at Roti King.

Christmas in St. John's, AntiguaDowntown traffic on Christmas Eve - St. John's, AntiguaChristmas Eve - St. John's Antigua

Cruise ship coming to eat us
Cruise ship coming to eat us

Dinner at Roti King - St. John's, Antigua

Then, a couple of days later, she thought that perhaps we should see another beach besides our own. She first took us to Devil’s Bridge, a big, splashy-water place with a natural rock arch. We continued on to Half Moon Bay, and not long after we got there, Sara pulled fresh papaya from her mother’s yard and crunchy snacks out of her bag to share with us. So presumptuous! I know you’re shaking your heads with me.

Devil's Bridge, Antigua
Devil’s Bridge

 

 

Sara and me at Devil's Bridge, Antigua

Half Moon Bay
Half Moon Bay

We also went to Dickenson Bay, just down the road from our apartment, where Sara arranged for this rainbow.

Dickenson Bay, Antigua
Dickenson Bay, Antigua

For the eve of New Year’s Eve eve (that would be Dec.29, for you slow people), our tour took us to the south end of the island to Nelson’s Dockyard, a cultural heritage site and functioning marina. Here, we were able to view the boat used by a reckless man named James (Tiny) Little for his solo Atlantic crossing. I say reckless because it appears that he didn’t brush his teeth in the evening – for 116 days! Just check out the poster of his daily schedule.

Francis and Lisa at Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaTiny's Atlantic Row - Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaSolo Row Across the Atlantic - Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua

I would be able to tell you more about this cannon if I could have read the signs.

Cannon - Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaRusty signs - Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua

Powder Magazine at Nelson's Dockyard
Powder Magazine at Nelson’s Dockyard

A Sunday night tradition on Antigua is live music at Shirley Heights. The steel drum band sizzles and the views are breathtaking, so we spent our evening letting the local music seep into our souls. What’s done is done, however. We can’t undo it now.

Steel drum band - Shirley Heights, Antigua Live music at Shirley Heights, Antigua

View of English Harbour
View of English Harbour

 Who’s a pretty bird? Who’s a pretty bird? Not the English, apparently.

Antigua vs. England cricket billboard

And that’s how it came to be that we mingled the time at our “home” beach at Runaway Bay with some of Antigua’s other charms. But take a lesson from this story, travelers. I have a feeling that there are more like Sara out there.

Have you encountered a Sara in your travels? How did you protect yourself? Share your stories!

 

Travel: Lazy Days in Antigua, Part One

By Laura Zera 26 Comments

CIA_map_of_the_Caribbean w. circleThere are beaches, and there are beaches. And then there’s Antigua, which has a beach for every day of the year. My husband Francis and I spent 11 days in Antigua at the end of December, so while we didn’t have enough time to see all 365 bits of coastline, we managed to make it to a few. Of course, that meant we had to first leave “our” beach, the one that was just steps away from our apartment at Runaway Bay. It practically took an act of God just to get us to put shoes on, so heavenly was our home base. Let’s start there.

We stayed at the Barrymore Apartments, seven nights in Unit 7A – upstairs, with a full Caribbean Sea view – and then the last three nights downstairs with a side view of the water. Many hours were intentionally frittered away just staring off into the horizon as the skies changed color and the water lapped against the shore. These deck-view shots will explain why.

Our beach at Runaway Bay, AntiguaSunset at Runaway Bay, Antigua 1aSunset at Runaway Bay, Antigua 1c

When we weren’t staring off into the distance, our short-range view was on the birds and lizards that came to visit and eat the bread crumbs and Cheerios that we set out for them. Although a common species, I really like the boat-tailed grackles, because they’re shamelessly entertaining. Here’s a place to find a sampling of their many calls, if you’re interested. And here’s what they look like prancing around our deck and shaking their tail feathers.

Boat-tailed grackle, AntiguaBoat-tailed grackles - AntiguaPuffed up grackle 1b - AntiguaPuffed up grackle - Antigua

Some of our other guests…

Antiguan bird friends 1bAntiguan bird friends 1a

Lizard - Runaway Bay, Antigua

And wherever we go, there is ALWAYS a visiting kitty.

Visiting kitty, Antigua 1aVisiting kitty, Antigua 1b

For food, a trip to the First Choice grocery store a couple of miles up the road kept us well stocked for the duration of our trip. I became a quick fan of Wadadli, the local beer and also the name given to Antigua by its original Indian inhabitants.

Then, just steps away from our apartment, one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining at, La Bussola, served as our destination on our first and last evenings. These guys had both the food and the service dialed like nobody’s business. (Just a note on the dress I’m wearing in the photo below: my next-door neighbor bought the same one! Isn’t that funny/weird? I guess that’s what happens when you find your fashion at Fred Meyer.) And finally, the picture of our apartment’s microwave is for all of you industrial design fans out there. Observe their clever use of Comic Sans font.

Wadadli Beer - AntiguaDinner at La Bussola - Runaway Bay, Antigua

 

Example of Comic Sans font in industrial design - Antigua

Finally, I’ll wrap this week’s post with a shot of our apartment building, taken from the water. No tropical trip is complete without a waterproof camera, and Francis swears by this one: Nikon Coolpix AW100. It’s not expensive, either. Notice that there’s only one person on the beach (me) — it was like that quite a lot of the time we were there. Quiet spots can still be found! The beaches of the world are not all overrun.

View of our apartment - Runaway Bay, Antigua

Join me for my next post on Antigua, when we actually LEAVE THE APARTMENT.

Have you spent any time in the Caribbean? Tell us your favorite Caribbean scene. Or queen. Either works. Just remember, no more love on the run.

 

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