Laura Zera

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Travel: Marble Canyon, British Columbia

By Laura Zera 18 Comments

Marble Canyon 1cWe often hear that the journey is as important as the destination. That adage proved itself truer than ever last week while driving from Calgary, Alberta to Fairmont Hot Springs, British Columbia and we killed the ignition for a spell at Marble Canyon. From the road, it’s as inauspicious as a regular rest stop, but walk a few feet down the path and it soon becomes clear there’s more to experience than a pit toilet.

Part of Kootenay National Park, Marble Canyon once lay under a kilometer (that’s 0.6 of a mile) of glacial ice. Thousands of years of melting and erosion have carved a narrow channel between the dramatic rock walls, a pipeline for the turquoise water of Tokkum Creek to barrel through and meet the Vermillion River at the bottom.

Not too far away, a new fossil find has paleontologists excited, and rightfully so. After the initial excavation, they estimated that 22 percent of the observed species were new to science, while others had only previously been seen in China’s multi-million-year-old Lagerstätte (how’s that for a cool word?).

On my walk, tree skeletons served as reminders of forest fires past, while new growth, shrubs and wildflowers peppered the landscape, reassurance of Earth’s regenerative powers. Giant slabs of petrified wood lined the path, their layers perfect and even, and the Canadian Rockies loomed. I couldn’t help but feel very, very small.

Marble Canyon 1g  Marble Canyon 1f

Marble Canyon 1e  Marble Canyon 1dMarble Canyon 1b  Marble Canyon 1a

Have you ever found an unexpected gem like this in your travels? 

Travel: Leavenworth, Bavaria’s Cutesy American Cousin

By Laura Zera 15 Comments

Leavenworth skylineWhen bored urban planning committees “seek to revitalize,” places like Leavenworth are born. What this means for the easily distracted is that all we have to do is drive two hours northeast of Seattle, and gesundheit, we’ve hit Bavaria-land, a place where beer and sausages reign supreme. It’s where even the banks, gas stations and fast food restaurants have to abide by the gingerbread-house building code. And where goats mow the grass (although they find the whole thing a bit much, too), and idiot tourists pet the goats (yes, that’s my hand in the photo; at least my fingers are tucked in).Leavenworth goat 1b

Lamenting our historical lack of local road trips, I planned a two-night mid-week stay for the height of the hot in Leavenworth, when hiking, rafting and inner tubing are the activities du jour. In the week leading up to it, forest fires broke out in several surrounding areas, and a stretch of Highway 2 into town was closed. We took the alternate, equally easy, and beautiful route through Blewett Pass, and arrived just as the only storm front the area will probably see for the summer moved in.

Screw gingerbread house, how about gingerbread Academy Awards?
Screw gingerbread house, how about Academy Awards?

Unenthused by the rain, we didn’t hike, but the helpful woman in the tourist information office gave us a good map of the trail options, and knew enough about inclines and durations to help us pick what would have been an appropriate route for our criteria. Nor did we inner tube down the Wenatchee River; I was all ready to go had there not been thunder and lightning. The intel on tubing, however, is that some companies want you to drive 10 miles to Cashmere, then float to Leavenworth, at which point they’ll shuttle you back to Cashmere, but there are outfits who start by shuttling you upriver, so you float right into home base. We were going to go with Leavenworth Outdoor Center, who also seem to offer a longer float if you start before 2 pm than some of the other places.

Leavenworth street 1a

 

We didn’t mind that our visit lost all structure as soon as the skies opened up; a sleep-in and slow breakfast are never a bad thing. In between rain showers, we walked the streets and supported the local economy by purchasing consumables (divine creations from Schocolat, and our new favorite soap from The Bubblery). If you’re a trinket collector, Leavenworth is loaded. It has a nutcracker shop, with the Nutcracker Museum upstairs, and between all the boutiques, you can easily find the words “man cave” on any object you desire: Mug? BBQ apron? Golf bag? Check, check, check. Vessel in which you put the blood of your best hunting buddy to hold sacred the time you shot your first squirrels together? I have no doubt it’s there on the shelves, too.

Leavenworth goat 1a
Which way to the Alps?

All in all, the town is novel and the setting scenic. It’s an accessible location for anyone coming from Seattle or B.C., and would make a fabulous spot for a family reunion or trip with the kids. (We heard it’s jam-packed on weekends, so were glad to be there mid-week. It also gets extremely busy for Oktoberfest, of course.) But for the same reasons I can’t stomach the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas—or Vegas itself, to be honest—I found myself more drawn to the mountains around it than the town itself. In that sense, I guess, Leavenworth has something for everyone, whether made by man, or Mother Earth.

Have you ever been to a theme town? Or a place that was unique in its consistency of character? Please share!

Travel: Happy Earth Day to You

By Laura Zera 14 Comments

I always forget how amazing it feels to connect to the beauty and wonder of our planet until I get outside for a bit, away from the stores and the cars and the people, and then I notice a bug or a leaf or a flower petal, and time comes to a sudden and crashing halt.

I believe that just as humans are wired for connection to each other, we are grounded by our connection to Earth. In honor of Earth Day, here are two pairs of photos from two of my favorite places, plus an audio clip of the howler monkeys doing what they do best, taken from above the treeline, atop Temple IV at Tikal, Guatemala (or, Jurassic Park, as I like to call it), while waiting for sunrise.

Arches National Park, Utah
Arches National Park, Utah
Entrance to Arches Nat'l Park, Utah
Entrance to Arches Nat’l Park, Utah

 

Yellowstone, Wyoming
Yellowstone Nat’l Park, Wyoming
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://laurazera.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Howler-monkeys-at-dawn-Tikal-Guatemala.mp4

Okay, one more thing. Here’s a portrait that my husband, photographer Francis Zera, took of Earth Day founder Denis Hayes for a magazine cover a few years back.

Denis Hayes photo by Francis Zera
Denis Hayes photo by Francis Zera

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Earth Day! Which places on this planet are the most grounding for you? 

Photo and video credits for this post: me, me, me, me, me, Francis.

Travel: ChickyBus’ Lisa Egle Explains Her Adventure Style

By Laura Zera 8 Comments

Lisa Egle of ChickyBusAre female solo travelers crazy? No!* In this interview with travel expert Lisa Egle, she soundly puts all lingering speculation on that to rest, and might very well light the solo-travel fire in you! Lisa is the author of Magic Carpet Seduction, a memoir of off-the-beaten path travel that takes ‘riders’/readers on unique journeys to China, Latin America, Turkey and the Middle East. She’s also the editor/publisher of ChickyBus, a travel blog that focuses on story-telling, photography, random travel moments and humor. When she’s not on the road, she’s home in New Jersey, working as an ESL professor. Her writing has been published on BlogHer and Matador Network, and one of her stories was featured in an article on the Oprah.com blog.

*(I may be crazy, but for other reasons.)

1. The more I get to know you, Lisa, the more I realize that we’re cut from the same Cordura when it comes to our travel philosophy: people-focused, often solo, and off the beaten path. Let me start by asking you what led you to doing your first solo trip, and where did you go?

A British friend, someone I’d known when I lived in Ecuador in the mid-90s, invited me to visit her in Madrid. I’d always been curious about Spanish culture and I spoke Spanish somewhat fluently, so I accepted, figuring I’d plan for a month-long trip so I could travel solo after spending time with her.

Because I wanted a true cultural experience, I joined Servas, an organization (pre-Couch Surfing) that allows travelers to connect and stay with members around the world. After I spent a week with my friend in Madrid and on the southern coast, I set off on my own and stayed in low-budget rooms and in locals’ homes.

I spent several days with a family in Sevilla and went looking for UFOs with an artist in Granada. After Andalucia, I made my way up through Portugal and re-entered Spain in the northwest. I spent a week in Galicia, birthplace of the dictator Franco, which was amazing because it was so different from the rest of the country. There, I stayed with a family in a tiny village and also visited Santiago de Compostela, the capital, before returning to Madrid.

It was an incredible trip because of the wide range of experiences I had—and because of how much I enjoyed traveling solo. I loved that feeling of it being just me, my backpack and a desire to explore and be spontaneous. It was definitely this trip that led me to fall in love with solo travel.

2. People often ask me why I choose the places I do, to which I usually reply, “Why not?” What is your modus operandi for deciding where to go next, and how far off the grid to go? And does your method include magic mushrooms?

Lisa Egle in IndonesiaSometimes, I see a photo or video of a country or its people and I get a feeling—usually giddiness—and I know I must go there. That was the case with Indonesia. When I saw the monkey chant in Baraka, the non-narrative film by Ron Fricke, I got goose bumps. The more I learned about the country, the more fascinated I became and the more I wanted to go. A few years later, after a random tweet led me to connect with someone in Sumatra, things fell into place and I went.

In other cases, I choose to visit a country because of my ESL students. This is how/why I went to Turkey. Hearing about their hometowns and cultures made me curious. I started reading about the country, eating Turkish food locally and after a while, decided I had to have the complete experience by traveling there. And I’m glad I did. Turkey is now one of my favorite countries in the world.

Are magic mushrooms part of the decision-making process? No! But for some reason, I often see them when I’m traveling. They tend to be quite abundant in the countries I typically visit.

3. Where are you going next, and why?

I’m not 100% sure—it could be anywhere—but my next stop might be Colombia. It’s always been on my list and somehow, it has eluded me.

I have quite a few students from there, but that’s not the only reason I want to go. I’ve enjoyed salsa dancing for about 15 years now and really want to do it in Cali. The reason: the first people who taught me to dance are from there, so that’s the style I know best. I have no doubt whatsoever that I’ll love it if I go.

4. Do you get the feeling sometimes that people from your home country think you’re crazy for traveling the way you do? What would you say to that?

Lisa Egle and Carlos, Lebanese stranger
Stranger, but not strange

Absolutely! Some worry about my safety. Last time I went to Mexico, quite a few people warned me about how dangerous it would be. I had to explain that certain provinces are quite safe—and that Baja Sur, where I was going, is one of them—and eventually they understood.

Others can’t believe how much I like to stay with locals who are complete strangers. “But don’t you feel uncomfortable in those situations?” they ask. I explain how welcoming most people are in other countries and how much it enriches travel for me. After a while, it starts to make sense to them.

Overall, most people find my style of travel unique and are intrigued by it. Some have told me that they secretly wish they could do it, too.

5. Have you ever been in a situation where you’ve thought, “Oh crap, I may not make it through this alive?”

Yes—in Mexico about seven or eight years ago. I was traveling from Puerto Escondido, on the Pacific Coast, to Oaxaca, in the mountains, on a poorly maintained bus. It wasn’t the typical large bus; nor was it a mini bus. It was an irregular size, somewhere in between the two.

To my surprise, the driver took the route that the minivans follow (not the longer route that’s safer for big vehicles)—treacherous mountain roads. The way the bus shook and rattled the entire time, I thought it was going to fall apart. Worse yet, the driver drove too close to the edge of the road. Every time he took a curve, I thought we were going to plunge to our deaths. I was terrified the entire night and relieved when we finally arrived.

6. Stray cats and dogs: pet them, or avoid them?

Avoid them. Unfortunately, in many countries, animals are abused, so you don’t know how they’ll react to you. Also, I don’t want rabies. So I stay away from all strays.

7. What’s the most valuable thing you’ve ever had stolen (or lost) on a trip?

Money.

Believe it or not, with all the countries I’ve been to (including those with dangerous reputations), the one and only one where I was pickpocketed (twice) was Spain! The first time was in Barcelona, where I was living at the time. I didn’t even see it. I was in a supermarket and I think the man reached into my gym bag. He got some cash and my ATM card and unfortunately, managed to withdraw $300 from my account.

The second time was in Madrid. Two guys ran by and grabbed by backpack-style purse. I had a cellphone inside (with all my friends’ phone numbers, which were not written down elsewhere) and some cash. Fortunately, my passport was in my friend’s apartment.

7. How do you protect yourself from theft (or your own stupidity)?

Lisa Egle in La Paz, MexicoI use a slash-proof waist pack. It’s got special mesh in it, which can’t be cut, plus a trick lock. When I first got it, I even struggled to undo it. I keep my money, credit cards and camera in it. I love it because I never worry when I’m in a crowded city or on a bus or in a bad neighborhood.

I also try not to arrive anywhere, especially a large city, late at night. I also take advice from the locals about which areas to avoid. And although I love to talk to strangers, if I get a weird vibe from someone, I listen to my gut and find a way to break away.

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Thank you to Lisa for her willingness to come play on this blog and for being a great global citizen, and to you guys for reading and jumping on for the ride, too! You can keep up with Lisa’s travels by following her on Twitter, Google+ and Facebook.

Questions for Lisa? Ask away! And I’d love for you to share some of your own answers to these questions. 

 

Travel: Lazy Days in Antigua, Part II

By Laura Zera 20 Comments

Antigua license plateThe goal for our December trip to Antigua was to do as little as possible, and Francis and I were exceptionally successful at achieving it (see Lazy Days in Antigua, Part I to read about how we sat around all day, mouths open, spittle running down our chins). Let me tell you, though, there were other forces at work.

Disastrously, we met a very fit and rather diabolical Antiguan American woman named Sara on the flight down. Insisting that we “go out and see the island” (???!!!), she picked us up at our apartment and drove us North to South, East to West, on several occasions. It was terrible. We barely survived it.

On Christmas Eve, Sara’s idea of fun was to join in the merriment in downtown St. John’s. There were lights and decorations, happy people everywhere, and to rub salt in the wound, a deceivingly scrumptious local dinner at Roti King.

Christmas in St. John's, AntiguaDowntown traffic on Christmas Eve - St. John's, AntiguaChristmas Eve - St. John's Antigua

Cruise ship coming to eat us
Cruise ship coming to eat us

Dinner at Roti King - St. John's, Antigua

Then, a couple of days later, she thought that perhaps we should see another beach besides our own. She first took us to Devil’s Bridge, a big, splashy-water place with a natural rock arch. We continued on to Half Moon Bay, and not long after we got there, Sara pulled fresh papaya from her mother’s yard and crunchy snacks out of her bag to share with us. So presumptuous! I know you’re shaking your heads with me.

Devil's Bridge, Antigua
Devil’s Bridge

 

 

Sara and me at Devil's Bridge, Antigua

Half Moon Bay
Half Moon Bay

We also went to Dickenson Bay, just down the road from our apartment, where Sara arranged for this rainbow.

Dickenson Bay, Antigua
Dickenson Bay, Antigua

For the eve of New Year’s Eve eve (that would be Dec.29, for you slow people), our tour took us to the south end of the island to Nelson’s Dockyard, a cultural heritage site and functioning marina. Here, we were able to view the boat used by a reckless man named James (Tiny) Little for his solo Atlantic crossing. I say reckless because it appears that he didn’t brush his teeth in the evening – for 116 days! Just check out the poster of his daily schedule.

Francis and Lisa at Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaTiny's Atlantic Row - Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaSolo Row Across the Atlantic - Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua

I would be able to tell you more about this cannon if I could have read the signs.

Cannon - Nelson's Dockyard, AntiguaRusty signs - Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua

Powder Magazine at Nelson's Dockyard
Powder Magazine at Nelson’s Dockyard

A Sunday night tradition on Antigua is live music at Shirley Heights. The steel drum band sizzles and the views are breathtaking, so we spent our evening letting the local music seep into our souls. What’s done is done, however. We can’t undo it now.

Steel drum band - Shirley Heights, Antigua Live music at Shirley Heights, Antigua

View of English Harbour
View of English Harbour

 Who’s a pretty bird? Who’s a pretty bird? Not the English, apparently.

Antigua vs. England cricket billboard

And that’s how it came to be that we mingled the time at our “home” beach at Runaway Bay with some of Antigua’s other charms. But take a lesson from this story, travelers. I have a feeling that there are more like Sara out there.

Have you encountered a Sara in your travels? How did you protect yourself? Share your stories!

 

Travel: Lazy Days in Antigua, Part One

By Laura Zera 26 Comments

CIA_map_of_the_Caribbean w. circleThere are beaches, and there are beaches. And then there’s Antigua, which has a beach for every day of the year. My husband Francis and I spent 11 days in Antigua at the end of December, so while we didn’t have enough time to see all 365 bits of coastline, we managed to make it to a few. Of course, that meant we had to first leave “our” beach, the one that was just steps away from our apartment at Runaway Bay. It practically took an act of God just to get us to put shoes on, so heavenly was our home base. Let’s start there.

We stayed at the Barrymore Apartments, seven nights in Unit 7A – upstairs, with a full Caribbean Sea view – and then the last three nights downstairs with a side view of the water. Many hours were intentionally frittered away just staring off into the horizon as the skies changed color and the water lapped against the shore. These deck-view shots will explain why.

Our beach at Runaway Bay, AntiguaSunset at Runaway Bay, Antigua 1aSunset at Runaway Bay, Antigua 1c

When we weren’t staring off into the distance, our short-range view was on the birds and lizards that came to visit and eat the bread crumbs and Cheerios that we set out for them. Although a common species, I really like the boat-tailed grackles, because they’re shamelessly entertaining. Here’s a place to find a sampling of their many calls, if you’re interested. And here’s what they look like prancing around our deck and shaking their tail feathers.

Boat-tailed grackle, AntiguaBoat-tailed grackles - AntiguaPuffed up grackle 1b - AntiguaPuffed up grackle - Antigua

Some of our other guests…

Antiguan bird friends 1bAntiguan bird friends 1a

Lizard - Runaway Bay, Antigua

And wherever we go, there is ALWAYS a visiting kitty.

Visiting kitty, Antigua 1aVisiting kitty, Antigua 1b

For food, a trip to the First Choice grocery store a couple of miles up the road kept us well stocked for the duration of our trip. I became a quick fan of Wadadli, the local beer and also the name given to Antigua by its original Indian inhabitants.

Then, just steps away from our apartment, one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining at, La Bussola, served as our destination on our first and last evenings. These guys had both the food and the service dialed like nobody’s business. (Just a note on the dress I’m wearing in the photo below: my next-door neighbor bought the same one! Isn’t that funny/weird? I guess that’s what happens when you find your fashion at Fred Meyer.) And finally, the picture of our apartment’s microwave is for all of you industrial design fans out there. Observe their clever use of Comic Sans font.

Wadadli Beer - AntiguaDinner at La Bussola - Runaway Bay, Antigua

 

Example of Comic Sans font in industrial design - Antigua

Finally, I’ll wrap this week’s post with a shot of our apartment building, taken from the water. No tropical trip is complete without a waterproof camera, and Francis swears by this one: Nikon Coolpix AW100. It’s not expensive, either. Notice that there’s only one person on the beach (me) — it was like that quite a lot of the time we were there. Quiet spots can still be found! The beaches of the world are not all overrun.

View of our apartment - Runaway Bay, Antigua

Join me for my next post on Antigua, when we actually LEAVE THE APARTMENT.

Have you spent any time in the Caribbean? Tell us your favorite Caribbean scene. Or queen. Either works. Just remember, no more love on the run.

 

Travel Survey: The Results (and Winners) Are In!

By Laura Zera 15 Comments

First off, thank you to all who completed my travel survey. There were 61 respondents, and, quite frankly, some answers and trends that I did not expect. I guess that’s the whole point of doing surveys, though, hey?

Bamako, Mali - Guy Sleeping on CartThe reason I asked this particular set of questions is that I’ve been playing around with the idea of designing unique tours to Africa—Ghana, Mali, maybe Malawi and Mozambique. There are plenty of safari companies and volunteer exchanges out there, and I didn’t intend to repeat that. My vision is what I call “progressively independent itineraries.” We’d start out as a group who does everything together, then branch off into increasingly individual excursions until everyone is able to experience solo travel like never before. Of course, the “like never before” part has a lot of details behind it, crafted by my own travel experiences.

And guess what I found out from your answers? A trip to Africa, where a plane ticket costs about $1000 USD from London and more than $2000 from Sydney, followed by pretty rough accommodation in an area fraught with disease, likely would *not* be a big draw for people. I’m not kidding.

See, I love Africa in all of its gritty glory. While I want to share it with everyone (and their dogs), the data shows that it’s not a top pick for people, especially when you have limited time and travel dollars, like many of us do. Here’s what your answers told me.

Basic data

  • Q1: Of 61 respondents, 64% were women and 36% men.
  • Q2: Generation X (born 1965-1981, like myself) made up 57% of the respondents, followed by 28% for baby boomers (born 1946-1964). The other age categories had single-digit percentages.
  • Q3: A full 57% categorized themselves as having traveled a lot, followed by 33% who traveled a little, and 8%, a shit ton. Only 1% was in the ‘untraveled’ category. As to why I didn’t assign “trips per year” or some such metric to the categories, I have no reason other than it was more fun to say things like “shit ton.”

More specific data

  • Q4: In response to “what’s the one place you most want to visit,” this requires a table view! Apparently, we’ve all got a different corner of the globe (or beyond) in mind, which is actually pretty cool.

 

Place Picked by Place Picked by
Australia 5 Africa 1
New Zealand 1 Egypt 2
South Pacific Islands 2 South Africa 1
Hawaii, Fiji/Hawaii 2 Seychelles 1
Pitcairn Islands 1 Madagascar 1
Bora Bora 1 Caribbean 1
Europe 1 Trinidad 1
France 3 Accompong, Jamaica 1
Ireland/Scotland, or Scotland, or British Isles, or London, or Edinburgh, or England/Ireland 8 Key West 1
Barcelona 1 Alaska 1
Italy, or Italy’s Cinque Terra/Amalfi Coast, or Rome, or Italy/Greece/French Riviera 4 China 1
Trans-Siberian Railway 1 Vietnam 1
Norway 1 Himalayas or Cuba 1
Iceland 1 India 3
Israel 1 Mars, space or the moon 3
South America, or Central/South America 4
Peru, or Machu Picchu 2
Argentina 2

 

  • Big Ben & London EyeQ5: One person chose “tour group” as the ideal way they’d like to travel, 82% said they’d go with a friend or partner, and 17% said they’d go alone.
  • Q6: Suitcase or backpack ran at a near-even split, with 48% choosing the former and 52% the latter.
  • Q7: For accommodation type, the majority – 43% — chose two- or three-star minimum. Four- or five-star got 18% of the votes, one-star received 29%, and 10% chose dirt-bag cheap.
  • Q8: The thousand-dollar mark seemed to be the sensitive price point which most folks don’t want to exceed, as that’s what 39% said. The other price points — $500, $1500 and $2000 – garnered between 15% and 18% of the answers, while we had seven people who confessed to being travel hackers (a goal I’m working my way toward).
  • Q9: I thought it was interesting that the numbers were split when it came to planning – having everything booked vs. winging it. About 56% said they liked their trip to be planned and booked, while 44% preferred less structure.
  • Q10: My apologies for constructing a wonky question/answer format here. I was trying work within my 10-question limit for the free version of Survey Monkey, but the format confused enough people that I didn’t get a full 61 true/false responses. From what I heard, 25 people are scared by tropical diseases, and 21, not so much!

Yaqeta Island, Fiji photo courtesy Francis ZeraNow for the prize draw. There were 47 people who included their contact information, ranging from full addresses to “your friend in ____.” Using the nifty sequence generator on Random.org, the winners are as follows:

  • African mask – Larissa McCormack
  • Fijian brain fork – Miriam Drori
  • Boeing 787 Dreamliner* – Jo-Anne Teal

*not full size

Congratulations, you three! I’ll be sending you all emails soon. The person whose name landed dead last in the sequence, hence the farthest from winning a prize, was Arnesh Ramnarace. Sorry, Arnesh, hope your luck runs better for other things (and look both ways before you cross the street, okay?).

What do you think of the responses? Did anything surprise you? 

 

Travel: Village Farming in Suriname’s Amazon Jungle

By Laura Zera 4 Comments

You won’t find a lot of Big Ag in Suriname; in fact, you won’t find a lot of big anything there. With a population that barely eclipses the half-million mark—most living along the northern coastal area–the largest venture in South America’s smallest country is bauxite mining. And while there are some export food crops, primarily rice and bananas, start heading deeper into the Amazon Jungle and soon the scale of farming operations shrinks.

Penpe village, Suriname
Penpe village, Suriname

Approximately 30 percent of Suriname’s land area is protected by law. This leaves wiggle room for the village communities that line the rivers to clear plots for subsistence farming without doing extensive damage to the flora and, subsequently, fauna.

I took a trip down the Suriname River in March of this year and had the opportunity to visit one such village. Leaving from Atjoni, on the south end of Brokopondo Lake (and also the point where the road ends), the journey to the village of Penpe took four hours in a motorized dugout. I made the trip with a hired guide named Don, as it’s generally both unwise and somewhat impolite to navigate the river without the help of a local.

Long bean
Long bean

Once in Penpe, Don pointed out a variety of plants which were unique to the region and/or that I’d never seen before. One of my favorites was the Vigna unguiculata, subspecies sesquipedalis, or, the long bean. The pod grows to about 18 inches in length, and for cooking, tends to be chopped into sections and fried.

Staple crops, such as rice, cassava and peanuts, were plentiful, and for the things that can’t be grown, a village shop carries products that have been transported down the river. Inventory is limited, but then again, so is the size of the consumer base, as is highlighted by the little shopper in the photo.What you can't grow... - Suriname

Ice cream bean
Ice cream bean

Unsurprisingly, the three Guianas (Guyana, Suriname and French Guyana) have a jungle’s worth of medicinal plants (just check out this list!). Two different kinds were presented for my inspection. First, one that looks similar to the edible long bean, but opens up to show a much different, fleshy interior and a seed that isn’t edible, according to Don. It’s called Inga edulis, or ice cream bean, and its leaves and seeds are actually used medicinally, against arthritis, rheumatism and diarrhea. And then there’s the porcupine-quill-covered pod. It’s called the Kan-kan udu, Apeiba Glabra (fam. Malvaceae). I’d hate to step on one barefoot.

Ice cream bean pod
Ice cream bean pod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

KanKan Udu
KanKan Udu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awara fruit
Awara fruit

On the fruitier side of life, I was able to see what the bright orange Awara (Astrocaryum Vulgare) looked like before it was squished up into the tasty juice I’d consumed earlier that week in Paramaribo. Small in size, it packs a punch with regard to nutrients and uses. Awara fruit is an excellent source of carotenoids, as one might guess from its color, with a concentration of ß-carotene that is higher than carrots. It’s also an important source of vitamin B2 (riboflavin). Finally, the oil extracted from the pulp contains both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids and is used in skin moisturizers and hair products.

Don couldn’t shed much light on the regularity of pesticide and fertilizer use on a village farm plot like Penpe’s, but a United Nations (UN) story from 2011 alludes to organic farming as being relatively uncommon, and highlights a program that the UN had been funding for at least five years to promote organic farming in Suriname.

Don in the rice field
Don in the rice field

The community of Penpe was chosen for our visit because it’s the home village of Chapeau Siesa, owner of the nearby Pingpe lodge at which I stayed, and it has an interesting history. Penpe was created by the Saramacca people, one of six Maroon tribes in Suriname. They came to the jungle in the 17th and 18th centuries as escaped slaves of African descent and started from scratch (the name Maroon comes from the Latin-American Spanish word cimarrón, meaning “feral animal, fugitive, runaway”). While they now have mobile phone usage and generator-powered electricity for four hours a day in Penpe, my guess is that some of the food crops in their jungle garden were growing long before their arrival.

I’d like to give special thanks to Don Majokko for his guiding skills, and to Linda and Rein at Tropilab for helping me get the correct names for some of my funky flora finds. 

Note: This article was originally published on GoodFoodWorld.com.

 

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